Welcome to the first in a series of blogs that look at grey hair and some ideas on what to do about it. I think white/grey hair is one of those universal truths, we all experience it to some degree in our lives and at some point, have to make a decision what to do about it.
What is grey hair: Technically it is not grey, it is white or to be even more correct transparent/translucent. Hair without its natural pigment, melanin, is similar to the colour of our nails which in themselves do not have a colour. How light reflects or travels through the hair or nail will depend on the thickness; finer white hair will appear glassy and transparent whereas thicker white hair will appear cloudier and more translucent.
The grey colour comes from the reflection of the white hair against the naturally coloured hair around it and the darker the natural hair colour the greyer that white hair will appear. In contrast take a look at a natural red or blonde head of hair (without staring) although they are growing white hairs too their overall colouring does not take on the grey look, they end up looking a more pastel version of their original colour.
Why do we grey: As you age, your hair’s melanocytes, cells that produce melanin, slow down and stop working. Once the change begins, the rate at which your strands lose colour varies. But whether you’re greying fast or slow, there’s nothing anyone can do about it, greying is all about genetics, although they have not isolated the gene that’s responsible, you can definitely blame it on your parents.
There is some research into the enzyme TRP-2 absence in the hair follicle’s melanocytes and it potentially being a likely link to progressive greying. But don’t hold your breath for an anti-greying tablet just yet, granted there is some research happening, I am not predicting an anti-greying breakthrough soon but it is exciting to think it is being looked into.
What I also find exciting about this type of research is often those clever scientists find out new discoveries beyond what they were originally researching opening up even more possibilities and understandings. Here’s to hoping I can include these new theories in the future.
Grey/white hair looks physically different: The colour is not the only thing that is changing, there are some physical changes happening in those white hairs too, the melanin appears to bring more than just colour to the hair. It also appears to help with the overall moisture within the hair. White/grey hair can for many of us also mean drier hair.
In thicker hair types the medulla (inner most layer of the hair) appears to get bigger; it is not understood why. There is a lot of speculation as to the effect this has in terms of colouring and conditioning hair, does it cause hair to become more resistant or more porous? Difficult to say and the debate is still going on. Personally, I have found both extremes, with the majority falling well within normal reactions. My preferred approach now is to assess on an individual basis.
Generally, as we age our hair can develop a curvature, think of all those wavy, curly or frizz bits appearing just where those white hair are also appearing, coincidence, maybe, but I defiantly have a knottier hairline especially where I am whiter at the nape.
Why does grey/white hair react differently to permanent hair colour: The answer is melanin, which not only brings colour to the hair but also some trace elements and metals that help to activate the permanent colouring products. White hair is more difficult to colour and manufactures know this that is why during the development of a colour product the instructions for use are created specifically for different hair types and these include steps for white hair.
Resistant white hair: Is hair that is resistant to the particular product you are treating it with leaving you with a result that was not expected; too light, too empty, too translucent or lacking in tone. It is becoming more unusual nowadays as technology in haircare has become more refined. Every Hairdresser has their resistant hair client story and has had to work through multiple techniques and products to find a solution for them.
One of mine was my Mum! 100% white from her early 20s, coarse beautiful hair that decided one day not to accept the permanent colour I have been using successfully on her for some years. I did everything and eventually started to play with different colouring products. Ultimately a demi-permanent worked considerably better than a full permanent colour. The scientist in me screamed Ahhhhh this should not be possible, the Hairdresser in me sighed with relief, I had found the solution…EUREKA.
Happy hair days
Caroline
