When I first bleached my hair, I noticed a lot of changes and without really thinking it through I slowly adapted with plenty of mistakes along the way. In this blog I am going to share some of the things I’ve discovered and learned for giving bleached hair some TLC. I would be lying if I said bleach does not damage the hair, but it can be mitigated and managed. Personal opinion alert; I am a lover of bleach and I am both a regular user of bleach on clients and on my own hair.
If done correctly bleaching opens up a new world of colour. Whether you are carrying off a full-head bleach, had some correction work or a regular highlighter, you’ll probably need some habit changes to ensure that you keep your hair looking healthy, hydrated and at its best. We cannot remove all the damage caused by the bleaching mechanism but it can be reduced and repaired to a degree. What cannot be done; is to return it to how unbleached hair will behave.
BEFORE
It’s OK to say ‘NO’, whether you are a client, a do it yourself or a Beauty Professional. If a big transformational look (or any chemical treatment) is either unsafe, unwise or not possible within the time frame, budget or expectations then the best option for everyone is no. Shopping around for a ‘YES’ is unwise, when I worked as forensic hairdresser (yes, they exist), consulting on legal cases the #1 issue and probably still today, was when something was attempted and did not come out as expected.
Make sure your hair and scalp are in good condition. You will need to understand what a bleaching service is for you. Do your research or talk to a professional find out what is and is not possible with your hair, how long it will take, how much it is going to cost, subsequent applications (the up-keep) and home maintenance. In other words, do a little homework first, it is all too easy to get excited about a new Balayage, Highlights or vivid colour and forget about the practicalities.
DURING
There are many things happening when our hair is bleached and you can find out more in my earlier blogs about the science behind and the art of bleach. One of the external changes to the hair is that it raises the hair’s cuticles, a bonus if you have fine limp hair as this really helps to add body to the hair but on the other hand these raised cuticles will interlock and tangle easily making it necessary to apply a conditioner to smoothen out the cuticles and reduce the knots.
Working with bleach; over the decades there have been several formula developments, although the mechanism has stayed the same, the introduction of dust-free and granulated formulas has helped to limit user contact with the powdered persulfate which can irritate if inhaled. There have also been several industry campaigns to educate professionals to wear gloves as well as regulations that limit the strength of H2O2 allowed on the scalp all improving the experience and wellbeing of the user.
Choosing your bleaching product; they are not all the same, my advice is, choose a brand you like and trust; confidence in your product is key when working with bleach. Try to keep brands with brands, i.e. use the bleaching product, developer and plex from the same brand; these have gone through extensive testing together and often there are synergies that will further enhance the bleaching process. Following manufactures guidelines and check out their websites; they have done all the testing for you and through their guidelines communicate how to get the best out of their products. Measure the product; there is a difference in performance; more developer means softer and slower lightening.
So how to reduce the damage during the process; I’ve added a list, I know boring but to the point.
- Make sure all your equipment is clean, any reside on brushes, combs, clips, in bowls or applicators will react with the beach and cause it to behave differently.
- Plexes are a great addition to your bleach mix, they will help to repair the weakened structural bonds throughout the hair.
- If a client is experiencing discomfort during processing, don’t dismiss the discomfort as ‘normal’, listen and attended to immediately. If you are doing it yourself an astringent sensation which eases off is normal but burning or stinging sensations that intensify are not; so, rinse off immediately.
- Don’t over-lap, avoid putting bleach on top of old bleach as this will weaken already weakened hair further.
- When working a full-head application apply sufficient product; try a placing method rather than a brushing on and off, accuracy is key, put plenty of bleach where you need it. I also like to work with a bottle applicator on small regrowth, I find it helps with the accuracy.
- When choosing your technique support, e.g. foil, wraps, Méche etc. make sure they are suitable for working with hair products to ensure a regulated reaction. H2O2 will degrade in the presence of metals.
- The hair needs to be evenly covered with product, open up thick areas of product and avoid piling the hair onto one area of the head; this will generate a hot spot and not only be more uncomfortable on the scalp but can lead to over lifting, uneven colour results and additional unnecessary damage to the hair.
- Don’t cover the head with a plastic cap, this will trap in the gases that should be escaping resulting in the bleach behaving differently e.g. expanding, separating or entering a radical state all of which can cause irreparable damage for both hair and scalp.
- Only work with heated appliances such as steamers and colour developers that are designed to accelerate colours and bleaches.
- Control the development, when the hair has reached its required lightening, remove it immediately.
- Apply a post-bleaching treatment on the day to shut down all the chemistry and bring the hair back to a manageable condition.
- Keep detailed records of the process as these are a great reference for the next application, helping you to match-up with the previous application but still check as ambient temperature will affect the lift. I have a thermometer I place beside the client and later add the temperature to their record.
- Work a simple styling on the day of the bleaching, avoid heated Stylers as the hair and scalp start to adjust back to their normal state.
AFTER
If new to bleach your hair will feel dryer than usual and it may be more brittle, inelastic and potentially prone to breakage and split ends. Don’t let that put up off, this can also happen to untreated hair but it may be a new experience for you. It does mean that your hair is more vulnerable to other chemical and non-chemical processes. These include everything from permanent wave solutions in curling or straightening, to regular heated styling with blow-dryers, straightening irons and brushes.
Be gentle: Reduce the heat settings on ALL your heated appliances (generally we have them too hot). When rough drying the hair use your fingers to continually break up the tangles rather than letting them build up. Keep moving your dryer or Stylers over the hair, avoid holding them on one area as over-heating and drying will further reduce the hair’s moisture and elasticity.
Shampooing and conditioning; you will need products that are more suited to bleached hair. Pick products that will repair, hydrate and protect the hair. You will also discover you will not need to shampoo the hair as often, which will help you to maintain your colour. Fortunately, there are many shampoos and conditioner available that have direct-acting dyes to help maintain the new colour these can be very handy to have to boost the tone, remove any brassiness or simply refresh your look.
Treatments; use every 2-3 shampoos to give your hair a deeper conditioning, continue with your plex of choice and alternate it with a deep repair or moisturising mask. Don’t forget your scalp, it may need extra moisturising about 1 week after your service, even my grease scalp can experience some dryness and flaking post my bleach service. Try massaging an oil of preference into your scalp and leave it for about 30 minutes before shampooing. I like to vary between Coconut or Jojoba oil, or if you like a premixed option you could treat yourself to a pre-blended version, just read the INCI and make sure the main ingredients at the top of the list are oils.
Oils and Serums; not only are these great for imparting shine they will also help to lock in moisture for longer. Opinion alert; I am a fan of my Moroccanoil Treatment Oil for those dull winter days my hair just seems to call out for that extra shine. You can also reapply as often are you need and your bleached will thank you with shine as it hungrily soaks up any additional moisture you offer it.
Hair Protection; you will also lose some of you UV protection not only for your hair but also your scalp… some styling product come with UV protection but my advice; wear a hat!
TIP: when choosing products for your bleached hair avoid anything that has a strong colour, go for clear, neutral or white products to avoid any unwanted colour pick-up on the porous bleached hair.
A lot! I know, but incremental changes in routine and care will ensure you have great looking bleached hair that you can wear for many years without having to sacrifice the length or shine.
Caroline
